The Fabric category is the most practical and loosely defined corner of the strap world. Under one roof sit very different textiles: woven NATO nylon, canvas, Cordura, perlon, sailcloth, and elastic Marine Nationale webbing. The modern reference point is the spec the British Ministry of Defence issued in 1973 for a single-piece nylon strap, 20mm wide in Admiralty Grey, drawn by a soldier on form G1098, or G10 for short. The NATO name comes from the NATO Stock Number on that paperwork. The double-layer design exists for safety: if a spring bar lets go, the backing strip keeps the watch on your wrist. Despite the legend, Sean Connery's Submariner ref. 6538 in Goldfinger wore a striped nylon band, since the true G10 would not exist for another nine years.
Real examples show how wide the range runs. At the top, Tudor has its Black Bay straps woven in France on 19th-century looms by Julien Faure in the Saint-Etienne region; a Black Bay on fabric runs around CHF 3,750, and a standalone original strap is hard to find, historically estimated near $250 to $300. Omega offers the Speedmaster Moonwatch on a black fabric strap with a foldover clasp, plus official NATO and coated-nylon options. At the accessible end, Erika's Originals makes elastic MN straps inspired by French Navy divers of the 1960s and 70s for around 50 euros, while MoonSwatch canvas bands start near $24 and Cordura-silicone hybrids around $43. Phoenix has built NATOs to MoD spec since the 1970s.
When buying, start with what the weave is for. NATO and ballistic nylon are the toughest and fastest-drying, happy going from pool to beach; canvas reads warmer and more characterful but wears faster than Cordura, so expect to swap it every few months. A classic double-pass NATO lifts the watch slightly and leaves a folded tail at the back, while single-pass straps, a hybrid between perlon and NATO, adjust through a ladder buckle, sit lower, and leave no tail. Judge quality by the hardware and the edges: ultrasonically cut and sealed sizing holes and a stitched tip are what separate a strap that lasts from one that frays.
Care is the category's quiet advantage. Wash nylon in warm, not hot, water with mild soap, roll it in a towel and air-dry; if the edge frays, seal it with the residual heat of a lighter rather than the open flame. Perlon is airy and light but the weave most prone to fraying over time. Stylistically, fabric instantly relaxes a diver or pilot: Bell & Ross and the IWC Big Pilot lean into field character on canvas and Cordura, while a Tudor jacquard makes the same watch wearable with a blazer. Because the cost is low and the swap takes seconds, this is the cheapest way to change a watch's whole mood in minutes.
