GlycinePremium
Maker founded by Eugène Meylan in Bienne in 1914; the Airman (1953) was the world's first 24-hour scale pilot watch, worn by Pan Am crews.
Glycine, founded in Bienne, Switzerland in 1914 by Eugène Meylan, built its reputation on the 24-hour Airman pilot's watch and remains one of the smartest ways into a genuine Swiss automatic on a sensible budget.
Glycine's story starts in 1914 in Bienne (Biel), Switzerland, where Eugène Meylan registered his own watchmaking firm and where the brand still operates today. Through the 1930s Glycine was among the first to mass-produce automatic watches, which helped it survive the Depression. Its defining moment came in 1953, when an exchange between sales director Samuel Glur and an airline pilot produced the Airman: the first watch with a 24-hour rotating bezel and a 24-hour dial, built so aviators could read a second time zone at a glance. The Airman went on to ride the wrists of US Air Force pilots in Vietnam and astronaut Pete Conrad during the Gemini 5 and Gemini 11 missions.
The Airman is still the heart of the catalogue. The 36mm Airman No.1 family stays faithful to the 1953 proportions: GL0370 and GL0372 are the four-handed GMT versions, GL0371 and GL0373 the cleaner three-handed Purist models. They run the GL293, a Sellita SW330-2 base with an updated 24-hour module good for a 56-hour power reserve; list price sits near £1,520, though you will routinely find them closer to £720. If you want more wrist presence, the 43mm Airman SST 43 (GL0309, GL0310, GL0311) offers 200 metres of water resistance, a sapphire crystal and the same movement family for around £720. On the dive side, the 42mm Combat Sub 42 (GL0078 Alliance, GL0081) carries 200 metres of water resistance and the GL224, built on the ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200-1 at 28,800 bph; it commonly trades between £240 and £520. Field-watch buyers should look at the 43mm Combat 6 Vintage (GL0124, GL0459), often around £450.
From a collector's chair, Glycine is not an investment that holds its number; it is honest value in a Swiss automatic. Those list prices are largely theoretical, since the ETA and Sellita based GL293 and GL224 are easy for any independent watchmaker to service and stocked with parts, which keeps maintenance cheap. Buying new, authorised discount channels sell well under recommended retail; buying used, hunt for box, papers and the original bracelet, which matter most on older Airman references.
Under Invicta Watch Group ownership since 2016, the change of hands stirred debate, but the core design language and Swiss assembly have largely held. Glycine makes no claim to Rolex or Omega prestige; its real appeal is putting a 24-hour Airman with a genuinely uncommon backstory on your wrist without going four figures. For a first Glycine, start with the Airman No.1 or the SST 43, the watches that carry the brand's identity in its purest form.
Glycine watches
Frequently asked questions
Which Glycine should I buy first?
Start with the Airman, the model that best carries the brand's identity. If you like 36mm, the Airman No.1 (GL0370 or GL0371) is the pick; if you want more presence and 200 metres of water resistance, the 43mm Airman SST 43 makes sense. Both sell around £720.
Do Glycine watches hold their value?
Generally no. Glycine is honest value rather than an investment. The list prices are largely theoretical, since most models sell well below retail through authorised discounters. As a result the depreciation mostly happens on the first purchase, after which used prices tend to stay fairly stable.
What is the difference between the Airman No.1 and the Combat Sub?
The Airman No.1 is a pilot's watch with a 24-hour bezel running the GL293, and it represents the brand's history. The Combat Sub 42 is a 200-metre dive watch on the GL224 calibre. Choose the Airman for travel and heritage, the Combat Sub for water and tool-watch duty.
Is Glycine expensive to service?
No, it is cheap to maintain. The GL293 and GL224 are based on Sellita and ETA movements respectively, with plentiful parts that almost any independent watchmaker can service. A full overhaul costs far less than with boutique brands, which keeps long-term ownership affordable and stress-free.
What should I check when buying a used Glycine?
Look for the box, warranty papers and the original bracelet or strap, since those drive value most on older Airman references. Confirm the dial and hands are original, check the gaskets if water resistance matters, and make sure the movement winds and runs cleanly.